Gnaraloo we love you
Posted: August 16, 2015 Filed under: Australia, Camping, Flora, Landscapes, WA | Tags: Australian native flora, gnaraloo, roadtrip, WA, wildflowers 4 Comments
Sunset views from the balcony
We rolled into surf spot Gnaraloo when the shop was closed (loose hours subject to swell). We picked a campsite number from the board and squeezed ourselves into the last ‘primo’ spot on the waters edge. After a fair number of dark moments setting up for the second time in 24 hours, we took up our standard position for sundowners in aesthetically-pleasing chairs bought especially for this trip.
pink patch
I had decided the two perfectly comfortable ones we had were unlikely to last the rigours of the next four months and a pair of extra-comfy, space thieving recliners with side table, a cup holder that only a stubby fits in, and no useful pocket, at ridiculous cost, were essential. Unlike the pair our friends have and everyone wants to sit in, these are hands-down going out to the nature strip (grass verge, kiwis) when we get home. The not very upright position requires the seatee to engage ones core and forgo back support, while the recline position reminds me of the dentist chair, without an adequate locking mechanism. This I discovered when our neighbours invited us to share Red Emperor wings they had just filleted and chargrilled to perfection. Mid story, I leaned back to demonstrate how the chairs were only good for star-gazing and ended up head-first in their rubbish bin. W delayed my retrieval until he could get a good photo. The host leapt forward to assist and hydrated the sand with a bottle of wine. The following day the host’s wife said “it was kind of like looking at a preying mantis, all you could see were arms and legs waving around…”.
Gnaraloo dunes, 2cm miniatures
Gnaraloo is one of those places that stays with you. As the sun sets, W and I always find ourselves talking about how we can import many of you reading this, for a holiday. The loos and showers are pretty grim, but the breaching whales cruising past all day, and snorkelling in the sheltered bay is hard to top.
If it isn’t cooked on the fire, it’s not on the menu.
It’s kids, dogs and man friendly (you can have a raging fire). The guys next to us drove 16 hours non-stop from Margaret River for the four-metre swell which was only three metres, but I heard a three year old tell his little mates it was epic all the same.
TRAVEL TIPS
Gnaraloo – Three Mile Camp, hot bore water (mmm tasty) showers after 4 pm, heated by fire. Play spot the Humpback whale (in season) all day long, snorkel the shallow reef teaming with schools of fish, find the largest Nemo I have ever seen, along with fantastic soft coral, surf some offshore left and right-handers, and take your tinny to fish. Book ahead to get a primo site, and only stay on the beachfront. It’s windy, which keeps the heat down, and extra radical if you surf. You can buy internet (pretty slow), and the shop has a good range of emergency basics, but you must take your own water, and I’d recommend taking all food supplies, unless you are a two-minute noodle fanatic.
Wildflowers – Between Northampton and Gnaraloo, the flowers continue to wave in the Brand Highway jet wash. Next stop, Warroora Station.
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- no desaturation here! the flower was really the only colour in this tiny landscape.
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- Roadside attraction – Brand Highway
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- 3cm carnivore
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- Coalseam pink, yellow, white and purple wildflowers
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- pom pom heads
And so it begins
Posted: August 11, 2015 Filed under: Australia, WA | Tags: Australian native flora, Camping, landscapes, roadsides, roadtrip, WA 11 Comments
With the nose of the Prado pointed skyward thanks to the several tonne payload, we roared off northeast. It is wildflower season in the Golden Outback, and I am intent on photographing vast vistas.
We arrived late afternoon at the Western Flora Caravan Park on the Brand Highway, to the trill of multiple birds. We set up with uncommonly minimal fuss and sat down suitably pleased with ourselves, to the first of many sunsets. The immaculate facilities appealed to my city-fresh OCD, while W’s eyes lit up at the communal fireplace. Our fellow campers were farmers I estimate in their 70’s (he was in Ballarat during WWII) with a ‘slider’ set-up which is essentially a ute fitted out with all manner of fantastic slide out things on the back, with the bed on top. A hip operation made the climb to bed impossible for a spell but didn’t mean the end of their travels.
At the campfire W tested the flammability of his runners, while I discovered a gaping hole in my proud kiwi knowledge of the difference between fine and superfine merino, Italian fabrics, and Chinese wool mills.
Generally, West Australian wildflowers present themselves from July to December, climate dependent. Recent heavy rainfall filled the land with life-giving moisture, which would mean an amazing display in a couple of weeks. After we left.
Undeterred, we headed north toward Mullewa, a town with its fair share of boarded-up shops, and nary a dog moseying down the main drag, yet you get the feeling the locals have given it a red hot go at creating points of interest. Signposted buildings from a religious past, historical walks, a Men’s’ Shed, and 4 planned ‘drives’ that take you in various directions were enough to have me thinking the annual wildflower and agricultural show on the last weekend of August would be rocking.
Wildflowers, Mullewa-Geraldton Road
Along the way, wildflowers carpeted the roadside. Individually tiny, it would be easy to roar past at 100 and not even see them. Stopping the Prado bullet with its destination-orientated driver has given W ample practise in u-turning a trailer and discarding the golden rule of No Stopping Unless Fuel Tank Is Running On Vapour. No Exceptions.
Everlasting carpet at Coalseam Conservation Park
Unable to maintain possession of W’s 20 year old Scottish mega-fleece any longer, it was time to head to the coast and break out the sunscreen. We headed north with a plan to camp at Coronation Beach. Arriving at dusk to a ‘camp full’ sign we pressed on, thinking Northampton could be an option. Some mates had stayed there for a few hours one night until the looting of vehicles outside their motel called for a 2 am mobilisation. A slow drive past the campground became a race north. Out of the sunset loomed Northbrook, a farm-stay/camp on a farm, with its own security in the form of a pair of Plovers and three tiny chicks. A Baltic windy night reminded us that random bits of tent flap require securing, and saw us packing up pre-dawn excited by the prospect of a UHT milk roadhouse coffee, and the Pickles Point fresh seafood shop at Carnarvon. Barista coffee and a massive bacon, eggs, and mushrooms at the Red Car Café, boosted cranky spirits, and a couple of hours later we found ourselves back at my favourite 3 Mile camp at Gnaraloo (pronounced Narloo), a fantastic camp and surf spot on the Ningaloo reef.
TRAVEL TIPS
Western Flora Caravan Park – At 300 km from Perth it is a good quiet weekend spot, uncrowded, dog friendly, and with enough room to chuck a ball around with the kids. Great base for Coalseam Conservation Park, exploring the region, perfect for those excited by bush-bashing in search of rare and tiny orchids, and only 70 km from fish and chips at Dongara, a town keen on Australian flags. Immaculate facilities get 5 stars.
Spider orchid at Western Flora Caravan Park
All things Western Australian wildflower – grab the wildflower guide from Tourism West Australia, http://www.australiasgoldenoutback.com/outback-australia-drive-routes/Outback_wildflower_trails, http://www.wildflowercountry.com.au
Brand Highway wildflowers
On the road again
Posted: July 28, 2015 Filed under: Australia, Camping, Landscapes, WA | Tags: roadtrip 8 Comments
Another day without coverage
Buckle up readers, the phoenix (blog) arises! I am about to embark on a 4 month tour of the north of Australia and will be blogging as I go. Come for the ride! Expect tales of misadventure, interactions with endangered species – human and otherwise – and photos of the wild, the beautiful, and the unique.
Windjana Gorge, Kimberley, West Australia
If you would like to receive an email when I publish something new, please enter your email address over on the right where it says ‘Follow this blog’. If you are new to my blog, browse a few old posts to get an idea of what lies ahead. These are some popular ones:
To the Pilbara and back where I left few stones unturned.
Feel the Fear where I realised I’d been swimming in a salty croc pond.
The Best Babi Guling In Bali where I temporarily returned to vegetarianism.
At the very least, glamour and lifestyle tips for surviving a road trip abound.
Bumper crop
Posted: July 8, 2014 Filed under: Australia, Flora, Landscapes, macrocarpa, WA | Tags: Australian flora, large fruited mallee, macrocarpa pyriformis, Rose mallee, West Australian botanicals 2 Comments
I’ve been thrashing about in the bush, breaking into interpretive dance when a spider walks on my face, and walking around in public places all day oblivious to the vegetation stuck in my viking braids. Nothing unusual there. What is special is my discovery of a whole new range of colours in my subject matter. Recent rain and heat have prompted a whole new set of flowers to break the bonds of their containment and spread their stamens. A few of my favourite things from the last couple of weeks. As always, I love knowing what your favourites are.
Tutu time
Posted: June 12, 2014 Filed under: Australia, Eucalyptus, Flora, Iconic Australian images, macrocarpa, WA | Tags: Australian native flora, eucalyptus, macrocarpa, mallee 4 Comments
I claimed I was on a mission, and I’m sticking with the theme. I’m gradually getting up to speed on the nuances between various mallee and macrocarpa and where I may track them down, thanks to evenings spent poring over quaint brochures, wildflower society booklets, and the ABC’s weighty Native Plants tome. I’d recommend not sitting next to me at a dinner party and politely enquiring about it, lest I send you to sleep. Suffice to say, it is proving to be a treasure hunt for me, and easily as much fun.
As glamorous as this sounds though, hold your envy in check. This week I took a while to get some shots near a house that had no open curtains, a large number of cars, and frequent short term visitors. I briefly contemplated a side business in surveillance, but as the industrial seed oil smoke from the nearby fast food outlet enveloped my hair, I realised I wouldn’t have the tenacity. And I don’t eat donuts.
Ah, the serenity.
Beyond the tutu. An exercise in being present.
After about Day 3, W said he no longer needed to see my daily finds, but to let him know when I have something different. Luckily I have a boom or bust approach to, well, everything; a perfect foundation for making hay when nature shines.
So, at the risk of overdoing the mallee and macrocarpa theme, here are a few from the last few days. I’m gathering a body of such work over at Nina Williams Photography, so check in there every now and again, if you would like to see more. I’ll be taking calendar orders in November!
I always love to hear if you have a favourite, and please let me know if you are interested in the plant names!
Roadside attractions
Posted: June 2, 2014 Filed under: Australia, Flora, Hakea, Iconic Australian images, WA, Wildflowers | Tags: eucalyptus, Eucalyptus Silver Princess, Gumnuts, Hakea, roadsides 6 Comments
Spurred by my singular mission for Australian iconographical supremacy, I have been burning up the kilometres in Perth’s hinterlands and developed a keen eye for the shrubbery of my favoured plants. Next time I will take a shot of the other view around some of these images. Envisage trucks and cars roaring past apace, and about every 10 minutes a ute horn and muffled yelling issuing forth. A strange custom, that one.
I’m playing around with backgrounds a bit. I cannot bring myself to snip off branches, preferring to shoot them in situ, but I have particular ideas about what I want my subject matter to sit on, and the background is not always ideal (the McDonalds red and yellow is SO dominating). I love the challenge of finding plants at the perfect stage, in the right light and manageable weather – it takes me back to driving around pre-dawn Victoria in the dark winter drizzle, with my travel mug of tea, and frozen fingers on the car heating vents. My happy place!
Eucalyptus caesia, Silver Princess
Hakea laurina, Pin-cushion Hakea
Eucalyptus Macrocarpa, Mottlecah
Eucalyptus fabulosii
Posted: May 28, 2014 Filed under: Flora, Landscapes | Tags: Australian native flora, brand imagery, eucalyptus, eucalyptus caesia, Gumnuts, iconic australian imagery, iconic Australian photography, mallee 6 Comments
I’ve had an epiphany. Encouraged by my close buddy S, a glass of red wine, and some Palak Paneer, I have decided to channel my business energy toward creating beautiful, iconic, Australian imagery for both Commercial and private clients. My deep and abiding love of Eucalypts, trees, and this stunning continent has been on a steady simmer since I started photography, and is reasonably obvious in my general subject matter, but what was flirtation, has blossomed into commitment. What this means when someone asks me (or you) what I photograph, you can answer with a flourish, “Oh, iconic Australian images.” My interpretation of this is seeking out and celebrating authentic, unique, Australia – the people, the places, the flora and fauna. This includes both landscapes and close-ups, and images are geared for wall art, commercial brand and stock photography, and maybe, one day, textiles.
(For the Kiwi’s out there, this doesn’t mean I spurn my roots. Gosh, no. The same principles transfer to Godzone.)
Where to from here? I will be back out on the road, hunting and shooting, and looking for new material. Stylistically, I am experimenting behind the scenes, so anything could happen. At the very least, Mum will get another calendar this Christmas. Here are a handful of my latest finds.
I call this last one Eucalyptus rorschachii. I’ve done a few like this, and most look like scary ancient gods. I have a way to go with this concept.
In summary
Posted: December 23, 2013 Filed under: Australia, Landscapes, Wildflowers | Tags: actor portfolio photography, architectural photography, Australia, Cape to Cape 2013, lessons from 2013., mountain biking, observations 5 Comments
The radio silence has ended. In truth, it has been an interesting, somewhat patchy, all-over-the-shop year, that was not at all as I envisaged at the beginning. When that happens, some things get my attention, and others languish. Nothing seems good enough to share, and the paralysis of perfectionism kicks in. Here are some observations.
In 2013, it is safe to say I did more new things, challenging things, and dumb things than I have done before. I was more excited, disappointed, determined, exhausted, and inspired than ever before, and sometimes in close succession. In fact, I squeezed all of those things into a 4 day mountain bike event, and somehow sneaked into the official documentary. I apologise unreservedly for the dodgy snippet.
Watch the full Cape to Cape 2013 Documentary on SBS here and join us next year! (I may have stuffed up the video above, if so, I’m at 48 minutes!)
Training for the event pulled me through the dark part of my year, winter. That, and a clutch of talented, inspiring, and just plain good fun mountain bikers that had me riding at my limit, and only ever crying on the inside. Legends, all. I’ve learnt that when I’m riding, if my mind drifts off to anything but riding, my speed drops 30%. Sometimes, thinking too much leaves you behind.
My photography world has shifted. The brooding, changing, landscapes I came to seek, love, and know inside-out in Victoria, have been replaced with vistas hardened to strong light, the colour sucked out of them, and located hundreds of kilometres from home.
I came west with a specific and fanciful aim to spend days on the road, finding magic, but while adventuring with W, I realised I it only worked when he was around. I felt unsafe travelling alone, and this destroyed my ability to see any magic. This floored, then freed, me. Without the singular identity of ‘Landscape Photographer’, I have spread my wings, and undertaken both paid and personal projects across the genres.
Against the advice of every entrepreneur that knows their shizz, I’ve done the opposite of specialise, amongst other things, pointing my camera at architecture, real estate, a baby Cake Smash, documentary, events, actor portfolio shots, vintage flowers, and corporate headshots. Throw in a Star Trek-themed wedding and a Bar Mitzvah, and no stone remains unturned.
I don’t recommend this approach for anyone starting a business, but it has been an important journey for me. And while I came to Perth with a plan that hasn’t materialised, it is a fantastic place to live if Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is something that snaps at your heels. It is never too early to greet a fellow traveller along the river, and they always seem happy.
Like the shirtless guy last week, strolling barefoot along at 5.30am, in his business pants, a business shirt tucked into the back of his pants, carrying one business shoe, and waving a cheery good morning.
In summary, 2013 has been a year of possibility, made possible by the unrelenting support from a handful of wonderful people. I wish you all the same for your 2014.
Vintage mad
Posted: October 8, 2013 Filed under: Australia, WA, Wildflowers | Tags: everlastings, instagram effect, vintage, vintage flowers, WA wildflowers, wildflowers 4 Comments
West Australian Wildflowers
West Australia allegedly has the greatest concentration of wildflowers in the world. I wish I could remember where I read that, to chase it up. But that snippet has gone the way of many useful fragments of information that float about untethered in my brain, untraceable until presenting themselves at 3am, when no-one is available to hear them.
West Australian Wildflowers – Everlastings
Spring is wildflower season, so I have been driving the countryside in search of sweeping vistas of everlastings, and determined to portray them in a manner that is not at home in a tourist brochure. This, along with a population obsession with ‘instagram’ style imagery, has prompted me to mess around with different photoshop effects and to take photos with the photoshop effect in mind. Et Voila! This week the vintage effect obsession is mine. Everything that passes through my camera memory card gets sprayed with layers of this and that. I predict that like shoulder pads, bum bags, and mullets, Instagram image filter effects will be immediately identifiable with an era, and Instagram will become a verb.
Smokebush
Margaret River waterway
Margaret River Rail Trail
Best of Bali (this week)
Posted: September 5, 2013 Filed under: Bali 2 Comments
There is a sense of perpetual motion in Bali. The traffic, the shops, bar and restaurant quality, all prey to the churn. This is great. For traffic. For the rest? It is a lesson in enjoying the moment, because next year that great little [thing you found] may be gone. Once thriving shops are vacant. Inexplicably next door, new shops under construction. Fabulous pool bars within a year have worn, stained, and tired decor, menus reduced to pizza, and cocktails awash with ice, cordial, and ethanolic vapour.
On the other hand, the palpable drive to meet tourist desires does keep things fresh. Streets of last years Chinoise furniture trend are magicked away, and freshly carved up fishing boats repurposed into everything. Those crazy metal chairs for your hipster cafe? Name a colour. International street food? Check.
There are numerous guides online bursting with solid, if not occasionally alarmist, advice on how to approach your trip to Bali, so I’m going in another direction. With the shelf life of around one month, here is my round-up of how to worry less, and have some fun when you only have a week to do it:
Board the plane intentionally ignorant of the Seedy Side of Bali, incidence of tourist deaths, motorbike accidents, air, water, dog, chook or mozzie-borne viruses and parasites.
Spring for a Bali fast track service at the airport. Sail past the queues, the unfragrant, the over-wrought children, and into your holiday. Stat.
Buy some local natural mosquito spray. Use it. Bali Deli sells a perfect pocket-size Utama Spa bug spray for $3.30. Starve those disease carrying varmints.
Drink filtered water. Don’t drink water from the tap or brush your teeth in it. Take an empty water bottle or buy a bottle of water there and refill from your hotel or villa water cooler if they have it. (Bali is fighting an immense growing plastic bottle waste mountain)
Get a massage at Bodyworks in Seminyak or Therapy in Canggu for around $27. (Yes, you can get one for $6 at walk-in places. Do it, I dare you.)
Book a sport mani-pedi for the bloke in your life and keep it a secret till he is in the chair. Get a mani-pedi yourself and say ‘so last month’ to orange. Choose pretty pinks or lavenders like OPI’s Lucky Lucky Lavender and Elephantastic Pink. Try Bodyworks, Think Pink or Shampoo Lounge
Hire a scooter for a day (ONLY if you are confident on one) and ride beyond Kuta – Seminyak. Wear the manky bikie helmet they give you.
Plastic fantastic at Potato Head
Have a sunset drink at Potato Head and marvel at the body confidence radiating off the sun-beds.
Awesome sauce at Biku
Order a margarita at Hotel Mexicola – the spicy Verde Margarita is a winner, or a Bloody Mary at Chandi. The ingredients alone should frighten off any threatening stomach bug.
Scarf Mexican food at Lacalaca – a fun spot down a laneway with a $5 soft taco and Bintang lunch special that revives the shop weary.
Offset the cocktail diet with the green salad at Biku or stuff yourself with high tea. Order coffee at a hotel you cannot afford to stay in.
Just a coffee thanks. Hotel Tugu, Echo Beach
Try Mamasan for dinner. Anomali and Drop for coffee. Take your seat among the expats for brekkie at Watercress.
Stay one night in a villa where the lounge has no walls.
Bring it. A lounge with no walls.
Coffee courtesy of a Civet
Book a driver for a day. Get the heck out of your hotel. Drink Luwak coffee that transitioned through a cat-like Civet, marvel at the rice paddies, and learn a little about the island.
Don’t argue with taxi drivers over $1, eat anything that moves independently, say it louder if someone doesn’t understand you (restate it simply).
Walk with a purpose, keep your hand on your bag, and wash your hands a lot. That’s with soap, guys.
Appreciate the abundant sense of humour
And lastly,
Expect to fasten your manky helmet with a knot
As I see it 